The fashion industry has long grappled with issues of diversity and abuse, and a recent investigation by the Sunday Times delved into the potential exploitation of models by agencies and talent scouts who dangle the promise of a brighter future. Through interviews with numerous models and a comprehensive exploration of the tactics used by modeling agencies to attract young individuals from economically challenged African nations, the investigation exposed a troubling reality.

At the heart of this investigation are several aspiring models hailing from the Kakuma refugee camp in northwestern Turkana County, Kenya. Established by the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) in 1992, the camp primarily serves displaced individuals from countries like Sudan and Ethiopia. It operates under the governance of the Department of Refugee Affairs, following the adoption of the Kenya Refugee Act in 2006.

Models who successfully pass the initial recruitment phase receive government-approved work permits to leave the refugee camp, allowing them to proceed to Nairobi. In the capital city, they are equipped with passports and visas, which pave the way for their journey to Europe. There, they are provided with accommodations and receive a weekly allowance ranging from €70 to €100 to cover their expenses.

However, the path is far from guaranteed success. Those who fail to secure sufficient paid work or are judged as unfit for the industry find themselves returning to Kenya. This journey back to the refugee camp can be fraught with challenges, as many models are considered too malnourished or inexperienced for the demanding world of modeling. To make matters worse, they often return with substantial debts owed to the agencies who had initially lured them with promises of prosperity.

South Sudanese model Alcol Malaul Jau, 23, shared her own disheartening experience with the Sunday Times: 

“I worked hard but came back with no money. A lot of people think I have money because I went to Europe — I say I have nothing.” 

Sudanese model Alcol Malaul Jau

Jau had practiced walking in heels at her refugee camp before making her runway debut in February, an experience she described as “amazing.” However, within six months, she found herself back in her shared hut with her family, holding a balance sheet that revealed a debt of approximately €3,000.

Top South Sudanese model Achenrin Madit walks the runway for JW Anderson.

The agency responsible for recruiting Jau, Select Model Management, claimed that client feedback on her had been less favorable. The agency’s CEO, Matteo Puglisi, expressed his regrets, stating, “We lost thousands of euros on her. We have never asked for reimbursement. I am truly sorry she didn’t succeed. It wasn’t for the want of trying on our behalf.” Puglisi also clarified that issuing debt statements to models is a “fiscal obligation.” While the agency requests reimbursement twice, they refrain from pursuing legal action to recover the money.

The investigation uncovered that Nigerian businesswoman Joan Okorodudu, known as Mama or Auntie Joan, signed models to her agency, Isis Models, and subsequently promoted them to larger agencies like Select Model Management. It was also reported that after one model, Biliny Manyang, sought to leave Isis Models, she alleged that Okorodudu warned industry contacts not to work with her or risk having other models withdrawn.

In response to these claims, Okorodudu defended herself, stating, “I am the only person in the industry who takes care of these models financially and assists their families. Modeling and helping the youth is my passion.”

Amidst the controversy, some models took to social media to support Mama Joan, with captions like, “Joan has been doing everything for love.”

While stories of disappointment and debt are prevalent, there are success stories too. Individuals like Rejoice Chuol, an 18-year-old native of Kakuma who now resides in London, and Sudanese model Mari Malek, who was once a refugee, are making their mark in the fashion industry. Chuol recently graced the runway for Dolce & Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week and appeared in a magazine ad for H&M. She expressed her desire to be an ambassador for her country. Malek is establishing Runways to Freedom, a group that supports refugees working in the industry. According to Malek, “South Sudanese refugee models are the ‘it girls’, and I believe it is due to the fact the diversity and inclusion movement in the fashion industry has skyrocketed demand from people asking for more representation.” She emphasized the importance of African, dark-skinned, and black models, particularly those from South Sudan, renowned for their striking beauty and powerful presence.

Rejoice Chuol walking at the Miu Miu S/S 24 Show.

Puglisi of Select Model Management highlighted the agency’s commitment to making a difference by supporting models like Rejoice: “Bringing a model like Rejoice to the top level is really gratifying for us all at Select because we felt we did more to improve a world by improving the life of Rejoice… than if we brought a multimillionaire like Kendall Jenner to the same level. For the most, their families are no longer hungry.” Puglisi pointed out that using models from the African refugee camp enhances the diversity of fashion shows, asking, “Do you want to go back to all-white fashion shows?”

American model Carré Otis, who has worked alongside supermodels like Linda Evangelista, Carla Bruni, and Naomi Campbell, responded to the Times investigation.

“The investigation into refugee models shows we have reached a tipping point and a new low which is affecting some of the most vulnerable people on the planet. Sadly, the deafening silence now is indicative of what we have experienced for decades.”

Carré Otis

American supermodel Carré Otis.

Otis serves on the board of Model Alliance, a non-profit organization dedicated to championing labor rights for individuals employed within the fashion industry. The organization is actively engaged in the fight for the Fashion Workers Act, a proposed legislation designed to oversee modeling agencies and address pervasive issues like debt bondage, one-sided contracts presented in languages models may not comprehend, and unsafe working conditions, among various other provisions.

“In most other professions, there are regulations and protections. In the modeling industry, there are few. I have spoken to models for years now, who are still forced to tolerate inappropriate conditions. The reason many do so is quite simple: if they were to speak out or protest, they could lose their job,” Otis wrote in the Times article. 

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The COVID-19 pandemic has disrupted Fashion Weeks worldwide, but this past Saturday, Feb. 13,  fashion fans got a treat from Flying Solo that hosted an in-person runway show on a SoHo rooftop. Even though it was 30 degrees Fahrenheit outside, the models and guests braced the cold, hungry for beauty and a sense of normalcy.

There were six one-hour outdoor shows, and by the beginning of the sixth show, it started snowing a little bit and the runway became icy, making it almost impossible for models to walk in heels. A staff member tried to wipe down the runway without pausing the show, cleaning with the cloth in front of walking models. They slipped many times, but were able to close the show strong, encouraged by the supportive guests who cheered. One of the models was seen crying from the frustration and the disturbing scene raised a question — is it worth suffering for fashion? 

“We tried our best to wipe the runway down but it was still very slippery for models in heels. They were really the heroes of the show and did an amazing job despite the cold conditions,” said Katie Lares, one of the original designers who helped build Flying Solo.

Flying Solo is an innovative company that gives brands that are ready to expand into new markets a platform to succeed through membership-based retail stores, leading-edge PR-showroom, and Fashion Weeks in New York, Paris, and Milan.

During a time when a lot of retail stores have closed down due to the pandemic, Flying Solo not only stayed afloat but has also expanded in size, moving the old flagship location to a bigger venue on 420 W Broadway, formerly a Karl Lagerfeld and a DKNY Store.

Managing Director and Co-founder of Flying Solo Elizabeth Solomeina said they always knew that their innovative membership-based retail model was the only way forward, and this year has proved that correct. “Small brands have no resources to afford standalone stores in areas like Soho, NYC. They also can no longer afford to do quality large-scale shows on their own,” she said. 

“We chose to do a live NYFW show even though it meant significantly more work for us at Flying Solo. It was also extremely challenging to execute in order to comply with all the safety regulations. It would’ve been much easier to organize and host a virtual show but we believed that this was a big moment for independent brands. It was their chance to get significantly more attention so we could not let them down and let the opportunity slip through their fingers,” Solomeina said. 

One of the Australian designers, Vijay Naidoo of Tattva/Truth Desi Streetwear, said she received the invite to NYFW last minute and questioned if she would be able to pull off the show. “Of course with the pandemic at hand, I wasn’t able to fly to New York. Not being able to go meant I had to design a new collection in 10 days! Being under that pressure was both challenging and enlightening. But we successfully managed to get everything to New York on time.”

Planning the fashion show during the pandemic presented unique challenges. In the past years, Flying Solo presented their fashion shows indoors, but for the past two seasons, they showed outside. “Safety was definitely our number one priority, and we wanted to make sure that we kept our guests and staff safe during the event. Everyone was required to wear a mask and temperature checks for staff were mandatory,” Solomeina said. 

Flying Solo showcased 83 brands from 18 countries including clothing, jewelry, shoes, bags, and other accessories. The clothing in the collections ranged from everyday streetwear and athleisure to more extravagant pieces and even swimsuits. Some of the looks that stood out to us the most were the dramatic and provocative designs by Prey Public, vibrant and colorful by Alexandra Popescu-York and Amari Monee, and stunning, dreamy pastel pieces by Hala Al Mamari. 

Romanian-born designer Alexandra Popescu-York, established in New York for more than a decade, said the message behind her collection “HOT mess” was a feeling of hope and vitality– hence, the bright colors. “I think we all came out from a year of pandemic a little shaken up, a little afraid, a little bored, a little messed up but that doesn’t mean we cannot be A HOT Mess. I am very emotional and emphatic with the situation that the whole world is in, and the situation is not a “pink” one. 2020 was a terrible year for all humanity. I chose to rise up and fight in my own way, as an artist and designer, to fight fear, to try to inspire myself and others for a better and beautiful future,” she said.  

Popescu-York gave credit to Flying Solo for putting up a show during these challenging conditions.  “Personally I didn’t feel the cold because my adrenaline was very high and all I felt was happiness and excitement!”

Multiple models that we spoke to also said that the adrenaline rush helped them endure the cold. 

As for the question of whether fashion is worth suffering for, opinions vary. 

“I absolutely love fashion and the creativity that goes into it. People work hard for their vision, designers dream of seeing their work on display and I enjoy seeing and hearing about their success. As long as I am treated respectfully and they know my worth and believe their vision would not be harmful to their model then yes, it’s worth it. It makes you want to try harder to do your best if you feel valued,” model Janine Tondu said. 

“Would I do it again? Yes,” she said. “The runway was slippery but the team was backstage trying to attach rubber soles to our shoes to aid us.”

Model Aleka Ward had a different opinion. “People say beauty is pain, but that’s a different type of pain. Personally, I wouldn’t do it again in those conditions but it was definitely worth the experience,” she said. 

After all, everyone’s testing out a new normal during these unprecedented times, and learning as they go. Perhaps in the future, Flying Solo can install a carpet on the runway or fake grass so the runway has better grip. Only time will tell. 

The post Flying Solo Fashion Show: Cold Weather & Icy Runway appeared first on The Urban Watch Magazine.